Softshell Jacket Manufacturing Process

Softshell is a widely misunderstood fabric in corporate outerwear. It is frequently sold as waterproof, and it usually is not. Understanding what the laminate actually is, and what it can be claimed to do, is the first step in specifying one properly, and it also explains most of the construction decisions further down this page.

What softshell actually is

Softshell is a bonded fabric rather than a single cloth. A woven face fabric, usually polyester or a polyester and elastane blend, is laminated to a knitted backing, typically a microfleece. Some constructions place a membrane or film between those two layers.

Two further points are worth knowing when comparing quotations. A durable water repellent finish is a treatment with a service life: it wears and needs renewing, and it does not make a fabric waterproof. And a laminate is specified by its layers and its components, not only by its weight. Finished softshell laminates are commonly quoted somewhere in the region of 250 to 350 g/m², but that band is wide and the useful specification is the face fabric, the backing, the presence of a membrane, and the stretch.

Cutting bonded fabric

A bonded laminate behaves differently from a single-layer cloth in the cutting room. It is thicker, so fewer plies can be spread per lay, and it does not fray, so cut edges stay clean without overlocking. Some constructions can be laser cut for a sealed, finished edge, which removes bulk at the hem and pocket openings.

The other consequence is that every cut edge shows two or three layers. Where a raw edge is visible, for example inside a pocket opening, it should be a deliberate design decision rather than an accident of construction.

Seams: bulk is the main constraint

Every seam in a softshell joins at least four layers, because both panels are laminates. At an intersection such as the side seam meeting the hem, that becomes six or more. Managing this is the core sewing skill in softshell production.

• Seam allowances are kept consistent and often narrower than on a woven garment, so intersections stack predictably.
• Needle and thread are chosen for the thickness; the wrong needle skips stitches or damages the face fabric.
• Seams are topstitched to keep them flat, since a bulky seam that stands proud is uncomfortable and looks poor.
• On three-layer constructions, remember that every needle penetration passes through the membrane. That is why softshell seams are not normally taped and why the garment should not be presented as waterproof.

Zips, pockets and closures

• Main zip. Open-ended, full length, graded per size, set into a facing so the tape is not against the wearer. Specify tape colour, teeth type and puller.
• Chin guard and zip garage. A small piece of fabric at the top of the zip that protects the chin, and a garage that houses the slider. Both are cheap and both are noticed.
• Water-resistant zips. Coated zips shed light water and are commonly used on softshells. They are water resistant, not waterproof, and the distinction belongs in your specification rather than in your marketing.
• Pockets. Zipped hand pockets are standard; a zipped chest pocket is common. Pocket bags are usually a lighter fabric to reduce bulk, and their attachment must not show through the face fabric.
• Cuffs. Hook-and-loop adjustment tabs, elasticated cuffs, or a plain bound cuff. Tabs are the most adjustable and are often specified in corporate programmes.
• Hem. A drawcord with toggles at the hem, or a plain bound hem. A drawcord adds two exit points that must be reinforced.
• Collar and hood. A high stand collar is the standard softshell finish, and the same laminate is often used for a matching vest. A hood is either fixed or detachable with a zip or press studs, and a detachable hood is a separate sub-assembly with its own cost.

Decoration on laminated fabric

This is where softshell programmes often go wrong, because the decoration decision has consequences for the fabric.

• Embroidery. Every stitch perforates all layers of the laminate, including any membrane. It is visible from the inside, it can look poor against a fleece backing, and on a three-layer construction it compromises the water resistance in that area. Where embroidery is required, it is normally worked on the panel before assembly with a backing, and a lined patch is often placed behind it.
• Applied badges and patches. A patch embroidered separately and attached to the jacket keeps the needle penetrations to the patch perimeter rather than across the whole logo area.
• Heat transfer. Effective on softshell face fabrics and it does not perforate the laminate, but temperature must be tested first. Excessive heat can damage the face fabric or affect the bond between layers.
• Printing directly onto the face fabric. Possible on some constructions and not on others; ask for a test on the actual laminate.
• Contrast panels and piping. Branding built into the construction, with no effect on the fabric's performance.

Whichever method is chosen, ask for a physical test on the actual laminate before bulk. A stitch-out or a transfer test on a scrap of the real fabric answers questions that no specification can.

Assembly sequence

1. 1Panels are cut from the laminate, with edges kept clean and any laser-cut components prepared.
2. 2Panel decoration is applied where it has been agreed, with a test already approved.
3. 3Pockets are constructed: zips set into welts or seams, bags attached.
4. 4Body panels are joined, with seam allowances controlled and topstitched to keep them flat.
5. 5Sleeves are set and the underarm and side seams closed.
6. 6The collar, and the hood where fitted, are assembled and attached.
7. 7The main zip is set into its facing, with the chin guard and garage.
8. 8Cuff tabs, hem drawcord and toggles are fitted, and reinforcement is added at the exit points.
9. 9Labels are attached, the garment is inspected cold and packed.

Finishing: do not press it

Softshell is not pressed like a woven garment. Heat and pressure can damage the face fabric's finish and, on bonded constructions, can affect the adhesive between the layers. Garments are finished cold, hung or folded, and inspected without a pressing step. That is a genuine difference from other outerwear categories and it belongs in the production plan.

Quality control: softshell-specific checks

If a water-repellency requirement matters to your programme, specify a spray test method and a pass level in the specification rather than relying on the word repellent. The tests to consider and how to set them are covered in the quality control guide.

What to put in a softshell tech pack

• Laminate: number of layers, face fabric composition, backing type, membrane presence, stretch and finished weight.
• Water repellency requirement, with the test method and pass level if one is required.
• Main zip: type, length per size, tape colour, teeth, puller, chin guard and garage.
• Pockets: number, position, zip type and pocket bag fabric.
• Collar height, and hood construction including whether it is detachable.
• Cuff treatment: tabs, elastic or bound.
• Hem treatment: drawcord and toggles, or bound.
• Seam construction and topstitching detail.
• Decoration: method, artwork, placement, and confirmation that a test on the actual laminate has been approved.
• Measurements with tolerances, including sleeve length and body length.
• Labels, and confirmation that the garment is not pressed in finishing.
• Packing: folded or hanging, bagging and carton specification.

Sampling

Sample worn, with the zip closed, and check that the front hem is level and the collar sits without pushing into the chin. Move in it: softshell is bought for activity, and a jacket that pulls across the back when the wearer reaches forward will be rejected however well it measures.

Approve the decoration test separately from the garment sample. Finding out that an embroidered logo looks poor against the fleece backing after the fit sample has been approved wastes a round.